Sunday, May 6, 2012

Heat is around the corner



To try and explain things quickly, the car pretty much retains everything from power steering, to A/C. Minus cruise control. Which sometimes when I drive up to Orlando/Disney World, I kind of regret not having.

So with the summer time around the corner, it's gets hotter and hotter as the days goes by. The DSM tends to over heat a bit when the A/C is on for extended periods of time. One of the major contributing factors to this is the Front Mount Inter-cooler (FMIC) that sits directly in-front of the radiator. On a hot humid day, the car cannot get the airflow that the A/C Condensor/Radiator requires due to the Front Mount standing in-front of the way.

If you notice, other turbo charged vehicles that have factory front mounts such as Mitsubishi Evolutions, Dodge Neon and Caliber SRT4's, all have 2 separate opening/ducting to accommodate for a radiator, and front mount. Unfortunately for DSM's, they were side mounted inter-coolers from factory and never designed with a FMIC in mind. Therefor, there is only 1 opening.

As great idea and cool it is to put it right in the opening, it's unfortunately very restricting for the radiator. Especially if you still retain A/C. Now, depending on where you live and other variables, this effects some people, and some people who live in colder climates won't notice much of a difference. But what choice do you really have if you decide to upgrade to something from a factory T-25?

A lot of people cut out separate holes in their front bumpers, and I simply hate the idea of steering away from an all factory look. So I decided to do this only as a test just to see the results. Since summer is approaching fast, I decided to take my old 2gb bumper that's quite beat up, and make the necessary cuttings for it and try it out to see if there's any change in coolant temps with A/C on and the goal is to keep temps below 196F.


Now, keep in mind. This bumper is really trashed from towings, curbs, and other forms of damaged.
This is simply function>form.

My friend Richard, who has a beautiful 98 GS-T original owner had to cut away at his bumper as well. But he says the benefits are worth it.
 

Notice how his is evenly cut, and has quality wire mesh. Since mine was only a test, I went off this template visually. Not measuring or anything. Just going by the eye.

And unfortunately for me, I could not find a straight edge anywhere. So I did the best I could.

Before

 After
I know, it's not pretty at all. But again, function > form. :(   If I do decide to stay with this set up, the final product will look much nicer on my new bumper.


Drove it real hard for about 15 minutes with A/C on, and the temps still started climbing, but a lot slower then it normally does. Not the exact results I wanted, but still progress none the less. I also noticed the car during throttle pulls to have a bit more power to it.

There are still things that I need to have done that I know will reduce underhood temps.


-Remove external waste gate and Exhaust manifold to place a Evo III Manifold or Ported 2g Manifold (Ceramic Coated or Coated by Swain White Temp Coating as well) so that a Heat-shield may be installed in both locations and run internally gated.
-02 Housing Heat Shield (02 Housing will also be coated)
-Install Factory A/C Condenser Fan (External Waste Gate prevents this and Slim fan that is on now no longer functions)
-Replace A/C Condenser with a new unit. The one that's currently in the car is slightly bent, and is really close to the radiator, so I wouldn't be surprised if its heat soaking it.

Optional: Install 1 or 2 small fans on the condenser as pushers. [But this may cause a even larger airflow restriction]




EDIT: 5/7/2012 - 9:40pm

After driving all day in around 86F weather, back completely sweaty, I've seen no difference in coolant temps/behavior compared to my other bumper. Switched back as I couldn't stand the ugly look. No point in driving with a destroyed looking bumper if it's not helping.

I think I will try to drive the car without a bumper period and see how that fairs.

EDIT: 6/20/2012

Been driving the car without a front bumper without a while, and temps remain below 186 (average temp is 183F) at all times. Unless idle it will get to 193-200ish and stop (remember, only 1 fan). But once I get moving, especially on the highway, the temps drop tremendously and the A/C can be blasted ice cold the whole time.

Only downside is the un-wanted attention I attract with the FMIC being exposed and all. But sure beats arriving to clients all soaked and sweaty looking.



Tuesday, May 1, 2012

A/C Troubles

A lot has happened over the course of last month. One of the main things being that the A/C Blower Motor failed on me on a 95F day with high humidity.

Was not a pretty day.

I luckily had a doner car that had a perfectly working A/C blower motor. Couldn't justify paying $230+ from Mitsubishi, and while aftermarket units are significantly cheaper, they are also much nosier according to a lot of people.

 The A/C blower is actually not that hard to change. Unless, of course. All 3 of your bolts are completely rusted! Now, Mitsubishi thought it was a great idea to put in these weird star/flat head shaped bolts to hold the A/C Motor up.What took a 3 minute job on the doner car, took almost close to 3 hours on my car fighting with the bolts! There was almost no way of getting them out due to the rust/lost design on them from rotting out, and also dealing with almost no space because of the tight clearance, rug and wiring.

All said and done, I got the bolts out and quickly discarded them. Swapped the broken motor for the working one, and replaced the retarded bolts with actual standard philips screws. Seriously Mitsubishi, what were you thinking?


Though, at the end of the day it was still worth the trouble. Cause not having A/C in 90F + Humidity, is nothing but a nightmare.